Faux Shiplap Fireplace DIY

When we selected our home plan to build, I immediately knew I wanted a fireplace in the gathering room. Our builder didn’t offer that option so I went on the lookout for some ideas for faux fireplaces. I found so many lovely projects on Pinterest (you can find me on Pinterest here) that I didn’t know what to do. I knew 3 things to be facts:

1. I wanted it boxy with shiplap
2. I wanted an electric unit that would also create heat
3. I did NOT want a place to put a television

Folks, all my research and sketching brought us here, to the faux fireplace of my dreams!

To say I am pleased with how she turned out would be an understatement, I am totally thrilled! It truly is beautiful, and exactly what I envisioned. So, how did we do it? It really wasn’t that hard, I would rate this project intermediate, because of the trim work, but the build really is simple cuts and joins. Let’s get into it!

For this project we used:

4- 1×6 cut to length

13- 2x4x10

Electric Fireplace unit (for the one I used, click here)

7- Craftsman MDF floor trim (for the exact one I used, click here)

1- Craftsman MDF floor trim (for the exact one I used, click here)

25- Shiplap Boards (for the exact product I used, click here)

1 gallon paint tinted to Sherwin Williams color Extra White (for the exact product I used, click here)

2 outdoor barn lights (for the exact product I used, click here)

2 workshop/appliance replacement cords (for the exact product I used, click here)

1 plug adaptor (to allow for 2 lights and 1 fireplace to be plugged into one 2 way wall socket, example click here)

Paint and Caulk

Additional Tools and Supplies: Miter saw, circular saw, jigsaw, level, electric nail gun, 2″ nails (brad or trim), drill, 2″ construction screws (2 boxes), hammer, caulk gun, paint brushes/rollers/pans/liners, drop cloth, painters tape, ladder, shape contour gauge

3- 1x8x8 cut to length to build mantel

1- Minwax Dark Walnut stain (click here)

1- Minwax White wash pickling stain (click here)

A few notes to mention before I get into the meat of this project, we chose a space to build our fireplace that had a wall plug behind it, that plug was installed by our homebuilder and came pre-wired with the top socket going to a wall switch and the bottom socket not going to a wall switch. We used the 2 way electrical extender to plug the 2 lights into the top socket so they work on the wall switch. The fireplace unit is plugged into the bottom socket and is controlled via remote control. We do recommend that you have all wiring of this sort completed by a professional.

Now, for the fun! throughout this post, I will not be entering the exact measurements we used to cut our boards because this will vary from home to home. Our completed project from floor to ceiling is 9 feet tall by 13 inches deep by 65 inches wide.

Begin by locating the studs in the wall of the chosen location. Cut your 1×6 boards to the length of choice, this is the full width you desire for the completed project. Use wood screws to secure the boards to the wall into the studs, spacing them evenly from bottom to top.

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Build the 2 side frames using 2×4 cut to needed size. We have crown molding and wide base molding that we did not want to remove for this project so we altered the height of the back boards to allow for trimming. Use wood screws to attach side frame to the 1×6 back boards.

Now it’s time to move to building the front of the frame. This is done using 2×4 boards cut to size. You will need to set 2 horizontal boards sized to hold the fireplace (instructions for size should be included with fireplace insert). Then you will use vertical 2×4 boards for bracing and attach to frame with wood screws. Once completed, insert the fireplace unit and check for fit.

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At this point, it’s time to apply the shiplap. begin at the top and work your way down. We did not attach anything to the ceiling. Since this piece is more decorative/ornamental, we attached the shiplap to the frame leaving the top portion to set flush with the ceiling. Continue down the front until you are to the area where you would like to install the lights. Determine the location for each light and use a wood drill bit to create the opening for the light cords, attach the brace from the light kit and set lights in place.

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Once you have determined that all things are working correctly, complete shiplap install down front and both sides. (we had to cut our top and bottom shiplap and trim to set flush with the crown moulding and baseboards. Upon completing shiplap, move on to installing trim. you will use an overlapping method so the seam is not visible from the front. (this will also have to be cut to shape for the crown and base trims). Use two of scraps of 2×4 and place for mounting the mantel. The standard mantel is a minimum of 12″ from the top of the fireplace insert to the bottom of the mantel. The mantel will be built as an open back box that will sit on the 2×4 pieces and be screwed in place throughout the top of the mantel down into the pieces. Now you can paint.

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Now let’s build the mantel! Use the 1×8 pieces cut all 3 to same length of choice for mantel, box in the ends using 2 pieces of scrap from cutting to size. I chose to distress mine to make it look like an old barn wood beam. I used a hammer (both ends) and hit and banged the wood making different shapes of dings. I chose to do a 2 layer stain, beginning with white pickling stain and one dry following with dark walnut. The result was stunning, and is my new favorite!

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When your paint is dry (we did 2 coats) and your mantel stain is dry (about 24 hours) you can install the mantel and your faux fireplace is complete!

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If you are interested in the Mail Pouch Tobacco Barn print, you can find it in my Etsy shop {click here} Color print is also available.

I hope this tutorial has been helpful. Please use caution when attempting to build a project like this, use safety precautions and do not attempt to do anything that is out of your comfort zone.

**This is NOT a sponsored post. All opinions are my own, and I paid for all products used.**